1. Review this installation guide carefully before beginning installation.
2. Remove your engine from its crate and check for:
3. Prepare a complete list of add-ons that you will need to complete your engine installation, including new and existing parts. Do not assume everything from your old engine is identical to the new one. (example: iron-headed engines take different spark plugs than aluminum headed engines).
4. Be sure all add-on parts are as recommended and properly cleaned prior to installation.
5. Install engine in vehicle, along with the ignition and fuel systems (if not ordered with your engine).
6. Follow engine pre-lubrication procedures.
7. Follow start-up and break-in procedures, including ignition timing.
WARNING: FAILURE TO PRIME THIS ENGINE CAN CAUSE PREMATURE BEARING DAMAGE
DO NOT SUPPLY FUEL TO THE ENGINE DURING THIS PROCESS
1. Fill the CRANKCASE and OIL FILTER with the recommended oil and amount of oil based on the type of cam your engine has:
2. If you do not have a proper "Oil Pump Priming Tool" then proceed on with steps 2 through 4 ...... Verify the ignition source does not have power. This will eliminate the possibility of any fuel in the cylinders igniting prematurely.
3. Remove the spark plugs and proceed to crank engine over with the starter for short, 20 second runs, allowing starter to cool 20 seconds in between cranks.
Note: Oil pressure may not be visible on certain electronic gauges, so we recommend using a mechanical gauge to ensure oil pressure and promote pre-lubing friction surfaces.
4. Reinstall spark plugs and proceed with initial setup.
We recommend you use a quality name brand extended life coolant. Check the label of the brand you choose to ensure the compatibility of the coolant with your engine metals (cast iron, or cast iron and aluminum) and radiator material. Use a 50/50 mix of antifreeze and distilled water to fill the radiator and engine.
The Engine should be filled from the highest spot in the cooling system, be it the water neck, radiator cap, or a remote fill. This is to help prevent air pockets from developing in the cooling system. For vehicles with long, or uphill radiator hoses, it may be necessary to lift the front of the vehicle, or fill the system from multiple locations. This may require installing the water neck or upper radiator hose after some initial filling. Doing this will ensure no big air pockets will be in the system.
Install a new performance thermostat equipped with a bypass hole. This allows trapped air to escape during heat cycles. As a general rule, we recommend a thermostat that will keep your cooling system in the 180° to 190° F range.
Once the system is capped and filled to the best of your ability, it’s good practice to squeeze the lower hose several times to try and dislodge any trapped air in the block. You will recheck the coolant level at the highest practical point AFTER the engine has been run through a heat cycle and allowed to FULLY COOL!
You should also have a recirculating coolant bottle that can pull fluid back into the radiator once cool. A “catch can” that does not have a recirculation tube below the water level can lead to air being sucked back into the system, causing air pockets.
We recommend using a PREMIUM GASOLINE with a minimum octane rating of 91 for your high performance engine, unless otherwise noted. Fuel requirements may vary for engine types.
For the start-up and initial break-in process, total timing has been pre-set if your engine was ordered with a distributor. You are still required to verify your timing, in case it was bumped during shipping or install.
If your engine was not ordered with a distributor, please follow proper procedure to ensure you install your distributor properly and verify timing. Keep in mind that you may have to advance the distributor beyond normal timing settings to achieve the desired 32° to 34° of timing during cam break-in. In many cases, you may also be able to plug in the vacuum advance to achieve timing in the desired range. See "SETTING ENGINE TIMING" for further timing instructions.
Initial start-up will be to check for leaks and to heat cycle the components that may need to be retightened, such as intakes, headers, etc., as seen earlier in this guide. Roller cams do not require a break-in period.
Start your engine. Bring it to 2,000 RPM and get it running smoothly. While the engine is running, be sure to check oil pressure, coolant temperature, and check for fluid leaks, such as oil, transmission fluid, fuel, and coolant/antifreeze. Listen for any unusual sounds. Should you hear an unusual sound, shut the engine off, check for the source, and correct it.
The purpose of Flat tappet cam break-in is to wear in the cam lobes over a 20 minute cycle, where your zinc oil can properly break in the mechanical lifters and cam surfaces.
To do this, the engine needs to be set up in a configuration where it can maintain 2000-2500 RPM for a 20 minute cycle, while remaining cool. Please make sure to vary the RPM in this range for the 20 minute period. This ensures that the engine is spinning fast enough for splash oil lubrication. Do not just lock the throttle and leave unattended.
You also need to ensure the engine has enough timing to prevent overheating. The majority of overheats during break-in are attributed to not enough initial timing. Start your engine, immediately bring to 2000 RPM, and check the timing. Rotate the distributor to achieve 24° to 34° of timing at 2000 RPM. Run the engine in this configuration for 20 minutes while varying RPM between 2000-2400 to break in your cam.
Your carburetor will have an adjustment throttle screw on the side to allow increased RPM holding. While the engine is running, be sure to check oil pressure, coolant temperature, and check for fluid leaks, such as oil, transmission fluid, fuel, and coolant/antifreeze. Listen for any unusual sounds. Should you hear an unusual sound? Shut the engine off, check for the source, and correct it. Once resolved, restart the engine, immediately bring to 2,000 RPM, and resume the acceleration/deceleration cycle for a total run time of 20 minutes.
CAUTION: Improper timing can lead to abnormal combustion and/or detonation. Neither condition is covered under warranty. No exceptions.
Setting timing by the “total” timing method: We DO NOT recommend using vacuum advance on the majority of our engines.
We will use 34° of mechanical timing.
CAUTION: If the initial timing is not between 10° and 16°, contact a Fern Pedro at JBs Power Centre for assistance and/or have total advance verified by a shop to be fully advancing, and not exceeding your engine’s recommended total mechanical timing of 32° to 34°.
THE INITIAL BREAK-IN PROCESS IS COMPLETE. YOUR ENGINE IS NOW READY FOR THE ROAD AND ITS 500KM BREAK IN.
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